Wrap Up 1: injuries

I went to the Chiro (Hyde Park Chiropractic) today for a little rehabilitation. The trip - or should I say the falls - was a bit rough on my body, but I have only a few minor injuries.

I bruised my ribs, skinned my knee, bruised my legs and got a sublaxation in my neck. Dr. Balen. popped my neck back into place and told me to expect a complete recovery in two weeks. Then I'll return for a back alighnment adjustment. Not bad after 410 km of Highlands mountain biking!
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Ferry Again

We had a great time last night telling stories and watching video of our trip.

This morning we loaded up the car and got on an auto ferry to cross Loch Linhe. It's a quick ride across. Then we drop off Tim and drive to the train station, where we unload the six Norweigans. Finally we press on to Edinburgh where Andy will leave David at Waverly train station and me at my hostel.
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Skaal! ("Cheers")

Here's the Norwegian drink of choice: Akevitt!
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I Can See the Light(House)

The lighthouse at Ardnamurchan marks the end of our journey. We have made it clear across the Highlands of Scotland from the North Sea to the Atlantic Ocean!

I feel more that I survived this trip than that I achieved it. I hung in there! But the learning curve for mountain biking through the wild of Scotland is, like the hills, quite steep. And in both cases I fell off a few times! But, yes! In the end I made it on my own two legs.

I'll remember this voyage for a long time. Wilderness Scotland put together a great production. I hope y'all enjoyed following me from home. I'll keep blogging as I travel back to tonight's lodgings for some merry-making with the crew and the on to a night in Edinburgh, a day in London and then ... Home!!
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Blackberry Bramble

Luckily we stopped on the road by a blackberry bramble bush, so we went forraging for a few snacks as we wait for the guest house owner to deliver our spare bike to swap for Shell's.
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Sunart Oak

We are in an area with many protected oak trees. These trees used to go all the way down the Atlantic coast of Europe, but have been cut down, and now persist only in isolated areas such as this one by Loch Sunart (which is a sea loch).

Sea lochs, by the way, are similar to fjords but have less dramatic precipices.
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2009 XT Wheels Suck

Shell wrecked his XT rear wheel yeasterday and our mech found that the wheel is servicable only by some very special tools.

So that's a double whammy against these wheels: they fail, and then they're not servicable by standard tools. That makes them quite unsuitable for cross country mountain biking!

We are on the roadside trying to figure a solution that will keep our group rolling.
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Day 7: to the lighthouse

Today we woke to sunny skies and birds chirping. Temps around 65 F. Perfect day for riding!

A few sunshowers cropped up during breakfast, however, and some grew clouds have joined the fluffy white ones, reminding us how fickle is the Scottish weather.

We're on our way to a lighthouse that marks the most westerly point of the UK mainland. Cheers!
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Day 6 Report

Today was fantastic!

We had a late start because the 10 am ferry was already loaded with bikes. Fortunately the ferrymen agreed to make a second trip to bring us across the loch.

The we rode on wide forest trails that kept us in constant view of Loch Sheil. We saw a rainbow along the route.

I wore my new thermal leggings and kept changing my clothes. I think that really helped me preserve my energy. Anyway I left great going into today's big climb. I managed to keep a strong pace for the full 300+ m climb over 3 km with a gradient of up to 20%.

We ended the day going through a farmer's road where we had to stop occasionally to shoo the cows off the track. I saw a shaggy cow called a Highlands Cow. Then we ended up at tonight's resting place in Strontontian. And here we are!
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across the loch

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ferry

Next we are going to take a ferry from Ft. William Pier across the Loch.
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Day 6: Departing Ft. William

We had a good breakfast this morning at the Guisachan House. The accomodations were otherwise fair. A chill came in last night but seems to have lifted by this morning.

I'm quite sore but hoping that will ease as the day rolls on. The sun is breaking through the clouds so that is lifting my spirits as well. Only two more days to go - when I reach the Coast I will feel that I have really accomplished something.
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Fort William town

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Inverlochy Castle

Finally, a real castle!
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Ben Nevis.

Ben Nevis is the highest peak in the UK. It's 1338 meters or so.
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Loch Oich

Here at Loch Oich (that's the loch I forgot earlier) there's a nice suspension bridge. Now we leave the canal trail and head for the forest road.
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Snack break

I'm feeling much better, what with the easy trail and sunshine and all. He's Tim chatting away against a nice backdrop of Loch Oich.
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Day Five

Today ought to be an easier day. The weather is mild (about 60 F, low winds, partly cloudy skies) but I have learned how fickle is the Highlands weather.

I think we all need a easier recovery day. Me most of all, what with my cut knee and many bruises, but also Bolly, who caught a cold, and half the others, who complain of fatigue. The two strongest riders, Toto and Shell, still apear to be in prime condition.

The route today winds down the great lochs: Loch Ness, Loch Loche, and Loch . There are many locks (areas where they pump in or out water to raise or lower boats as water levels change) on the lochs.

We have about 55 km to go on (allegedly) un-technical fire roads. We're making a late start due to several technical problems with the bikes. Hopefully we'll be on the road by 10:30.

I had hoped that we'd leave earlier as I've heard that tonight's destination, Ft. William, is a fun place to hang out and shop. There's still a chance we'll get there in good time - and hopefully without any wicked weather!
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End of Day Four

The Pass was terribly hard. It rained viciously the whole time, with winds ranging up to 40-50 mph gusts. The track, such as it was, was wet and rocky.

Top of the pass it was 4 degrees C. I was not prepared for the damp and the cold, and at the top my fellows had to lend me some dry clothes to prevent hypothermia. I ate two Mars bars and some fruit juice concentrate. With the dry clothes, I was ok to proceed.

The downhill was treacherous as I had imagined. It was steep, rocky and wet. There were a few fun watery passes, and I've got a great picture of one that I'll post when I return home.

Toward the end, on a straightforward and wide clay section, I washed out and skidded on my knee. I cut myself somewhat badly and so I went to a local clinic. The doctor said I was fine but put in two stitches for good measure. She also gave the wound a thorough cleaning to avoid infection.

All told, today was rough and dicey, but it was surely a day to remember. I experienced pain, fear as cold as well as comradery, joy and brilliant beauty. It was a day to remember. A hard day. A humbling day. The mountain almost beat be, but in the end, thanks to friends and my guide, I made it home happily and almost no worse for the wear - and I think a good bit wiser!
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Correction

Actually we are going to take the Corrieyiarack pass. About 730 m high - a high pass for this area.

The rain ebbed a bit but persists and visability is fair.

Attached are the pictures I forgot to attach this morning.

One of the guys, Toto, was kind enough to lend me his Gore-Tex leg warmers. It'll be a chilly 14 km descent regardless.
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Craigerne Pass

Today we woke to wind gusts and rain clouds. Temps around 50 F (10 C).

Our host at the Craigerne House Hotel prepared a lovely (massive) Full Scottish Breakfast: back bacon, sausage, egg, Heinz beans and black pudding. Coffee, tea and toast. Some cereal. Fruit. Juice. If you're still hungry after that, please consult a doctor.

Our route today goes over the Craigerne Pass. All morning we'll be climbing. Its wet and nasty - we'll see how this goes.
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Newtonmore

End of Day 3: I am exhausted.

Today was a big day with lots of fun, tough descents and really challenging climbs.

The Caldonian Forest was really wonderful!

Tomorrow we climb the Corriack Pass. It will be a long, grueling two-hour climb to the top followed by a steep, technical and challenging descent.
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snack break

Some rain in the forest. You can see the purple heather in the foreground of the picture.
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in Cairngorm Forest

Predominantly pink granite. An old lava seepage area. A huge part nearly the size of Wales.
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lunch stop

We had a wild morning. We started with a ton of climbing - almost 900 meters of vertical gain - and some thrilling downhill too. Now we're in a national pine forest, 35 km from tonight's stop.
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Day 3

Last night we stayed at a B&B called the Argyle Inn in Tomintoul.

Today we woke to cool, cloudy but dry weather. The reports say it will get colder as we travel West, away from the warming influence of the Gulf Stream that keeps eastern Scotland (and western Norway) relatively temperate - or so I'm told. I thought of the North Sea as a very cold place so this geological explaination vexes me.

We are also in hilly terrain now. The peaks, as such, range up to about 900 meters, so this range is shorter than our Appalachians. It is also far less heavily vegitated here. The hills (here called moranes) are covered in heather, a plant that grows about two feet high, and there are few trees. One does not have the feel of being in a forest but rather like being in a vast hilly field.

The heather is burnt back and managed to encourage new growth, which is preferred by grouse. Shooting red grouse is the sport of (English) kings. These lands are royal hunting grounds.
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Pleasures

Here I am, in a three-star bed and breakfast in a small village in the Highlands of Scotland. I am tired yet satisfied with a day of riding through the hills and moranes. After a sumptuous and jovial dinner with our gang of six Norweigans, an English barrister, our Scottish driver, British tour guide, and me, I retire to my room. Here I read (on my Kindle) Kidnapped, by Robert Louis Stevenson of Edinburgh, a story that is set neigh far from here. I drink my Caol Isa whisly and a bit of tea before an early bed, a big breakfast of fresh smoked local salmon, and another day of riding amid the heather.

Cheers!
-SO
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The most important part of the ride: the beer after

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the River Avon

The River Avon (pronounced "Ann") is named from Fangorian legend. Pagen women would bathe in this water for the blessing of fertility and childberth. This place is swarming with biting midges so our stop here will be short.

The bit before this was very rock, up-and-down and fun. We forded several small creeks and two big ones. Great fun!

We're going to Tomintout tonight. About 12 km remain. Onward!
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Balater

Here we are at Balater, en route to Loch Nagar. This town is at the north end of the train line. It is beautiful and looks very old. I expect it's quite cold in winter!
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on the way to to loch to see if we can find a crannog

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footpath

We started off on a footpath. David (the Brit) got a flat from a thorn.

Weather continues to be excellent, although a few clouds have covered the sun.

We made an early and fast start. I think the Norweigans are already anxious for lunch!
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Day Two

Its another beautiful morning!

We all slept well last night after a copious dinner at the local pub, The Boat Pub. (I had a dish pie from local salmon, if you're interested.)

Accomidations were nearly posh. We stayed at the estate of the estate of the son of an English Major who had several accolades from Indian conquest scattered around the house.

We had a big English breakfast involving sausage, ham and beans.

We're off to find some good singletrack and have a picnic lunch on a Monroe!
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offroad to the castle

Here at the footpath to Aboyne and Glenesk we turn north off the footpath and up into the hills, past a castle and to our rest for the night.

The morning's ride was very muddy and everyone is a mess, but it didn't rain. We took off rain coats at lunch (which involved delicious ham and chedder cheese).

Now the sun's out and the hills are lovely green. Onward!
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Lunch break

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The Port of Aberdeen and the start of our tour!

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Getting started!

Winderness Scotland picked me up this morning. Two of us met the van at Waverly. The other six from the group - apparently a group of six Scandinavians who work together on an oil rig - will meet us at Aberdeen.
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Review: Princes Street Backpackers

This hostel is bad. Most tourists should avoid it if at all possible. Read on to hear why, and note that I stayed in Room T on a Friday night.

Location: 2/5
The hostel is centrally located, but its also located well with earshot of a nighclub. So don't expect to fall asleep before midnight or without earlplugs! The hostel might be suitable for some who plan to be out and about every night until the wee hours, but the resy of us will not enjoy the proximity to city center sufficiently to compensate for the noise.

Convenience: 2/5
Again, I have to give a few points for its location near shops, bars, clubs and restaurants. But it loses most of these points because access involves climbing three flights of winding stairs. This was a real trick for me with my heavy suitcase! It would be completely impossible for a small girl with a big suitcase to get up the stairs safely. Those who travel very light will be less bothered. But when you get to the top, check in, and then it's two more flights of stairs down to the lower rooms! I just left my suitcase at reception to avoid these later stairs.

Helpfulness: 1/5
None of the staff seemed to know anything about Edinburgh. Almost all staff are young people from New Zealand and Australia who are working the desk in exchange for free rent.

Kitchen and Dining: 3/5
Here the hostel gets an average mark. It gets plusses because the kitchen is equipped with helpful things like convection ovens, a microwave, cellophane wrap, foil and plenty of cook- and bake-ware. Its a good spot for those who like to save money by cooking for themselves. But the kitchen is also equipped with filthy dish towels. Sanitation is questionable.

The dining room is small and sparse, with three or four wood tables and an assortment of chairs.

Accomidations: 1/5
The beds are awful. The thin matresses are slung on metal webbing. My back aches just thinking about them. No top sheet is provided. The pillows made me sneeze. One of the two showers - for the entire floor of rooms - was broken. There were holes in the walls in the bathroom. Any upholstered furniture was told and gross.

I've had better accomidations in a $0.50/night hostel in the Czech Republic.

Value: 2/5
At £11/night, Princes Street Backpackers is not cheap. Other hostels nearby cost the same. I think Princes' has got better rates for long stays - maybe £60/week? - so those who are committed to holing up here a while might give it a better mark. While not a total rip-off, you can find much more for your money.

Conclusion: Avoid This Hostel
This hostel has lots of negatives and no redeeming qualities I can think of. Everything they do well some other hostels match, and their poor qualities make staying here really uncomfortable.

For a positive suggestion, check out my forthcoming post recommending Castle Rock Hostel.

SO
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parting shot

Why do I feel so at home here? It seems to me that if God created a land for people to enjoy, it would be Edinburgh in September. The grass is the greenest, either side of the hill. The old cobblestone streets are wide for walking. Cyclists abound up and down the hilly crests.
And the Craigs! Such a beautiful and peaceful place. Hiking them is strenuous for great exercise yet too pleasant to be called work. Its many paths offer a choice between cobbled stairs and loose-earth handholds. At the top, a welcome wind will blow back your fatigue.
Her old walls are sodden but not failing. Squares built centuries ago yet entertain the youth. You can find fashionable dress or a Slanj kilt. And while you're about your business, take a breather with some firkin lager or ale.
Edinburgh has been a treat! Tomorrow I will see what marvels the highlands have to offer.
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made it to the top!

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